Managing Canine Noise Phobia
| Published: 10th October 2008 11:06 |
General Guidance
Many dogs have only a mild phobia to fireworks. To prevent these problems from getting worse it is important to follow certain guidelines:
1. Avoid taking sound sensitive animals to places where phobic events are likely.
2. Try and keep away from close proximity to launch sites of fireworks (the whistles and whooshes may cause generalisation to other sounds like squeaky car breaks).
3. If at all possible do not restrict access to escape routes. If none are available then try to open escape opportunities by, for example, providing a refuge.
4. Do not get angry at a fearful dog, this is likely to add to the emotional intensity of the situation and will increase the likelihood of future problems. It also supports the dog's belief that there is something to be afraid of.
5. Do not sympathise with a fearful dog, as this will reinforce the fearful behaviour. The dog may begin to ‘simulate' fearful behaviour in order to get attention.
6. It is best to ignore the fearful behaviour whilst trying to act happy and relaxed - providing the dog with a good role model of how to behave. You could play a game with another pet and tempt the frightened one to join in. Reward the dog with praise and attention when it shows signs of recovery from fear.
APPROACH TO THERAPY
Short-term management
Provide a Refuge:
Parker needed a refuge from fireworks every Bonfire Night and New Year's Eve
For a dog to establish control over the level of exposure to scary sounds it is important that it has somewhere to hide and effectively ‘escape'. Most dogs will already have a favourite place in the house to go to which usually has the lowest level of noise. This will often be a room with small windows or behind something that absorbs the sounds (under a bed or behind a sofa). If a dog does not have a refuge, or it cannot get to its hiding place, then it may cause a lot of damage trying to get away from the sounds. Sometimes the dog may not find enough comfort from their refuge and only goes there for short period before starting to dig or look for another place to hide. It is then worth trying to improve the quality of the refuge. Most dogs will pick rooms with solid walls (wooden and partition walls do not absorb low frequencies), with small windows (large panes of glass may resonate) and go for corners covered by heavy furnishings (soft furnishings absorb a range of sound frequencies). If your dog hides under the bed then put up heavy curtains, close the windows and load extra blankets and old coats onto the bed to help absorb sound and block out flashing lights. A wooden box may be fitted into a corner, but the walls should be thick and damped with layers of foam and blanket. The door should be made from thick overlapping blanket to block out light. It should be put in an area where the dog feels safe and should not resonate. Wherever your dog's refuge is, put in lots of blankets for it to dig and burrow in, including an old, unwashed piece of clothing so that your dog can smell your scent and feel comforted by your indirect presence. The hiding place must be accessibly at all times - make sure doors cannot accidentally shut and trap the pet inside or out.
Moderately loud rhythmic music with a good beat is an effective way to mask the firework noises. If your dog (and you) can tolerate it, rap or something with constant drumbeats is best.
Dogs can be trained to use the refuge as a den or sleeping area, reducing the likelihood of them waking from noises at night. Get them used to going to the hiding place 2-3 times each day and giving them treats - this will help them understand that this is a good place to go to.
The aim is to reduce the need for the refuge by means of behavioural therapy, but in some dogs, especially when elderly, a refuge may be needed permanently.
D.A.P. diffuser:
D.A.P. or dog appeasing pheromone is a chemical naturally secreted by a bitch nursing puppies. It is thought to create a sense of familiarity and security helping to bond the pups with the bitch, encouraging them to stay close to her. This effect has been shown to help in adult dogs to reduce the expression of phobic behaviour. Installing a D.A.P. diffuser approximately 2 weeks before an anticipated phobic event and leaving it on throughout can be very effective in reducing a dog's discomfort. The diffuser should be installed at the dog's level as close to its refuge as possible. Do not switch the diffuser on and off as the levels of the pheromone will not be maintained at an effective level. (It also uses more fluid every time the system has to warm up.) One diffuser will cover an area of 50-70 sq.m and should last 4-6 weeks.
Drug therapy (sedatives):
Sedation used on its own is not recommended any more. We still use it in dogs that are very scared of fireworks, but it is best used in conjunction with D.A.P. and behavioural therapy. The type of sedatives used has also changed.
Alternative therapy:
The Bach Rescue Remedy given at 4 drops 4 times a day starting at least three weeks before the anticipated events have been effective in some dogs.
Long term management
Behavioural therapy:
This is the ideal treatment and the only option that could produce lasting improvement. We start with desensitisation where we gradually reduce the dog's response to the sound by repeated exposure at low volumes, gradually building up. Unfortunately this can be time consuming and an unexpected exposure to real fireworks might put you back the where you started (we have some drugs which block memory to help in these cases). Once the dog does not react to the sound anymore, we start counter-conditioning. The aim here is to teach the dog to associate a previously scary sound with something positive like food or a game. This will prevent relapsing.
Long term drug therapy:
This is used in severely phobic dogs and will be discussed on an individual basis. Please make an appointment to see one of us if you feel your dog falls in this category.
From : Canine Noise Phobia Seminar Notes by Ceva and Sounds Scary
Please contact your veterinary surgery for further advice and help with individual cases.
Clare van Niekerk is a vet specialising in behavioural therapy and works at the Boyatt Wood Veterinary Surgery on Tuesdays 2.30-4.30pm and Wednesdays 9.00-11.00am. For appointments and enquiries please telephone 023 8062 9050.
Article by Annekie Montgomery BSc(Hons) MRCVS
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