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Lidl Goes Upmarket with the 'Wine Cellar' Selection
| Author: Bill Hughes | Published: 9th October 2012 12:21 |
There aren't many supermarkets in Portsmouth where you can waltz in and buy a dozen escargot and a bottle of St Emilion Grand Cru for £13. Did I hear you say 'Ah, that must be the Sainted Waitrose on charming and bohemian Marmion Road'? Well, think again pilgrim, for the place in question is in fact Lidl at the slightly less charming Fratton Station end of Goldsmith Avenue. In fact, I can't think of another supermarket that sells oven-ready snails in garlic butter, let alone pairs them up with a famous Bordeaux wine, so maybe it's time to take a closer look at the Lidl proposition.
Lidl has clocked that shopping boundaries are breaking down and customers can no longer be neatly stratified by class or income - there's something called 'portfolio' shopping going on. For example, a shopper might buy meat from their local butcher, vegetables from an organic producer such as Riverford or Southsea Greenhouse, their victuals from Asda or Tesco, and finally end up in Lidl for bulk buy items. So, when these affluent shoppers turn up in store why not reel them in further with quality products?
Lidl already provides some foody delights - those escargot are accompanied by frozen half lobsters, Coquille St Jacques, pomme noisette, Bavarian smoked hams, reindeer steaks (Ho Ho Ho...Merry Christmas kids!) and other Continental pleasures, and over the years the occasional bottle of wine has won a blind tasting or two. But now they've started taking their wine very seriously indeed with the new 'Wine Cellar' range, a collection of 'fine wines' targeted at those influential portfolio shoppers, with hopes of drawing them further into the Lidl web.
The 'Wine Cellar' collection consists of 19 wines - 9 reds, 8 whites, a Champagne and a 10 year old Tawny Port - under the strap line "Wine is Bottled Poetry" (Robert Louis Stevenson) Some of the wines seem to be permanent fixtures, while others may come and go as the buyers can get them. Lidl have put a bit of money into the new displays, and all of their stores in the UK have been fitted out with a speciality wine section toned in rustic reds and boasting wine-crate shelving - it's effective and gives the wines a setting that befits their quality.
I tasted a quartet at various price points - Bordeaux Supérieur AOP 2011 (£4.99) ; Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2010 (£9.99) ; Chablis AOC 2011 (£7.69) ; Pouilly-Fumé AOP (£9.99) Here are my tasting notes :
Bordeaux Supérieur 2011 (£4.99 - Master of Wine scored at 87 points 'very good')
Bordeaux Supérieur 2011 (£4.99 - Master
of Wine scored at 87 points 'very good')This was a surprise. The cheapest wine in the range is a Merlot / Cabernet Sauvignon blend with lovely soft tannins and is ready to drink. There's plenty of black fruit and a little spiciness on the palate, and a fresh nose of cherry and vanilla. I've not come across a sub £5 wine this good for a long time and if you baulk at spending £10 on a bottle of wine then this alone is worth a visit and the purchase of half a case. A great house wine which would accompany lamb chops, bacon and eggs, gammon, and even a cheese fondue. Highly Recommended.
Chablis 2010 (£9.99 - Master of Wine scored at 87 points 'very good')
Chablis 2010 (£9.99 - Master of Wine
scored at 87 points 'very good')
This basic Chablis scored better than the Premier Cru (£9.99 and 82 points 'good') and a fine little Chablis it is too. Straight out of the fridge the minerality and steeliness comes through - this is a modern Chablis created in steel tanks but none the worse for that, and these days it's the preferred method for this clean and flinty wine, making it ideal for shellfish, fish stews and steamed fish. Dry, slightly neutral on the palate, and delicately scented - although when it opens up and warms slightly it takes on a butteriness. Like most good dry whites from Burgundy it's best drunk with food. Highly Recommended.
Morellino di Scansano 2010 (£9.99 - Master of Wines scored at 83 points 'good')
Morellino di Scansano 2010 (£9.99 -
Master of Wines scored at 83 points 'good')
A different take on red Tuscan wine from the Maremma region. This is not a Chianti but it acts a bit like one, being made from the Sangiovese grape, and shares that wine's cherry flavours. There's not much on the nose, which is a bit disappointing, but after a few hours it opens out to a subtle 'Mon Cherie' chocolate scent. The palate is Black Forest gateaux , with balanced tannins and a fair amount of alcohol which catches at the back of the throat - the wine has legs and the slightly lower score possibly reflects this less than subtle integration of alcohol. Another food wine - braised beef, Lancashire Hotpot, liver and onions. Recommended, but there are Chiantis out there at similar prices that work better.
Pouilly-Fumé 2011 (£9.99 - Master of Wine scored at 86 points 'very good')
Pouilly-Fumé 2011 (£9.99
- Master of Wine scored
at 86 points 'very good')
Everyone loves New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but for my money the best SV will always come from the Loire Valley. The twin whites of Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre take the SV grape to wonderful places, and this Pouilly-Fumé is a fine example. My friend and neighbour Conor brought this one around on Sunday night, having opened it the previous evening, and whether 24 hours had enhanced the subtle aromas of lime and...tarragon?...I don't know, but a chilly glass revealed wonderful herby scents and minerally steely characteristics (softer than the Chablis, but with the smokiness and fuller mouth feel that's characteristic of this wine) Chicken dishes are a good choice, or a cheesy pasta, or even a cheese plate at the end of the meal. Highly Recommended.
Recipe, Wine & Music Match of the Week
We're matching the Chablis to a starter of Coquille St Jacques Okay you can buy Lidl's version when you're there, but it's so easy to make yourself!
Ingredients :
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
small onion finely chopped
2 cloves garlic crushed
8 king scallops chopped in 3/4 pieces
125ml white wine (use the Chablis)
150ml double cream
handful of grated cheese (aged gruyere or emmental)
Method :
In a pan melt the butter over a medium heat and toss in the onion and garlic, sautéing for 3/4 mins until soft and translucent. Add the chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper, stir and remove from heat. Transfer the mixture to a bowl using a slotted spoon and set aside, retaining the juices in the pan. Add the scallops and cook gently for no more than a minute, turning them as they cook. Return the onion and garlic to the pan and add the white wine, cooking rapidly for a few minutes until the wine is reduced. Add the cream and cook until the mixture has reduced some more and thickened (covers the back of a spoon) Spoon into clean scallop shells if you have them, or large ramekins if not, and sprinkle the cheese over. Grill for a few minutes until the cheese bubbles and browns. Serve with sliced baguette and a herb salad.
Music Match :
Van Morrison - "Born to Sing : No Plan B" Van's first new album in 4 years. Just the right mood for that sophisticated wine and bistro-by-the-sea Coquille St Jacques.
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